SET OF SIX FIRST EDITION BOOKS ON MOUNT EVERST

a) Eric Shipton, The True Book about Everest, London: Frederick Muller Ltd., 1955

142 pp; hardbound with dustjacket
7.2 x 4.8 in (18.4 x 12.3 cm)

A history of mountaineering on Mount Everest, from its naming by the British in the mid-19th century, to the British attempts to reach the summit in the 1920s and the successful summiting by Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay in 1953. Though the book seems to have been written for young readers or young adult readers, it is still an enjoyable account for the adult reader. The book includes illustrations by F Stocks May.

Describing the book, the author says, "Here, in fact, told by an expert mountaineer and a fine writer, is the complete dramatic history of the events which finally placed Hillary and Tenzing on the summit in 1953." (Eric Shipton, The True Book About Everest, London: Frederick Muller Ltd., 1955)

b) Ian Serraillier, Everest Climbed, London: Oxford University Press, 1955

60 pp.; hardbound with dustjacket, inside parts and spine in white cloth illustrated on front & lettered on spine in black
7.3 x 5 in (18.5 x 12.7 cm)

A poem in 5 parts. Illustrated in blue, black, and white by Leonardo Rosoman. The climbing of Everest has been seen by many as a symbol, a vision of man's true spirit, a revelation of the power which is given to man to overcome great difficulties when he aims high, not merely in the material but also in the spiritual sense. This narrative poem by Ian Serraillier is a true and moving interpretation of the facts and the spirit of the ascent of Everest.

c) Earl Denman, Alone to Everest, New York: Coward-McCann, INC., 1954

frontispiece, 255 pp., 12 black and white photographs and 4 maps; hardbound with dustjacket
8.4 x 5.7 in (21.5 x 14.5 cm)

An autobiography by Canadian-born mountaineer Earl Denman. A purist with little regard for modern equipment and well-heeled official expeditions, Denman was the first to scale all eight of the Virunga Mountains of Belgium Congo, accompanied only by local guides before he set sights on a lone conquest of Everest in 1947. With a lean purse of $700 and the simplest of equipment, he set off to Tibet despite Nepal's borders being closed to the Western world. Remarkably, he was able to persuade Tenzing Norgay (1914 - 1986) and Ang Dawato to partner with him. Though Everest eluded them, the trio reached the foot of North Col before turning back. Denman walked part of the way back to Darjeeling on bare feet after his boots were worn out. The over 600 mile (1,000 km) roundtrip from Darjeeling to Everest and back took three out of five weeks by foot - an outstanding show of resolve and the lure of adventure.

d) James Ramsey Ullman (and Other Members of the Expedition), American's on Everest: An Official Account of the Ascent led by Norman G. Dybrenfurth, London: Michael Joseph Ltd, 1964

xxiv, 429, [3] (blank) pp., 8 coloured and 48 black and white plates from photographs, illustrated endpapers; original blue cloth hardbound; blue and white spine title; original blind stamped device on front cover along with dustjacket, first UK edition.
9.2 x 6.1 in (23.5 x 15.5 cm)

This is a record of the first American ascent of Mt. Everest in 1963 that was led by Swiss-born explorer, film-maker, and veteran mountaineer Norman G Dyhrenfurth, whose father led international expeditions to Kanchenjunga and Batoro in the 1930s. Sponsored by the National Geographic Society, the expedition was purposed around scientific research with an academically trained team: five members with doctorates and eight holding masters degrees. On 22 May 1963, Luther G Jerstad and Barry Bishop reached the summit of the South East Ridge via the South Col route, while Will Usoeld and Tom Hornbein of the West Ridge team conquered the West Ridge or North Face. The two teams rendezvoused and descended together. On 8 July, the Expedition was received at the White House by President Kennedy and awarded the National Geographic Society's Hubbard Medal. This book is an exciting chronicle by celebrated author, mountaineer, and the official historian for this expedition, James Ramsey Ullman (1907 - 1971) who was also the oldest member of the team at the age of fifty-five.

e) John Hunt, The Ascent of Everest, Hodder & Stoughton, 1953

x, 300 pp. including 71 black-and-white and 8 colour photographs, 4 maps, sketches, 9 appendices, glossary, and index; original blue cloth with original dust jacket.
8.9 x 5.9 in (22.8 x 15 cm)

Lord John Hunt was a British army officer and is best known for leading the expedition to Everest in which Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay reached the mountain's summit for the first time in recorded history. As a child, Hunt spent much of his time in the Alps where he started developing his mountaineering skills. He continued climbing throughout adulthood, and when, in 1931, his military regiment was posted to India, he began climbing various parts of the Himalayas. After WWII, in which Hunt achieved the rank of Colonel, he was chosen to lead the Everest expedition on account of his military leadership skills as well as his proven abilities at climbing. He later became the first Director of the Duke of Edinburgh awards and was awarded life peerage for his work with young people in 1966.

f) Squadron Leader The Marquess of Douglas and Clydesdale and D F M'Intyre, The Pilots' Book of Everest, New York: Doubleday, Doran & Company, INC., 1936

xvi, 209 pp., illustrated map endpapers and 18 photographs and some in-text illustrations; hardbound without dustjacket
8.4 x 5.7 in (21.5 x 14.5 cm)

This book is written from the point of view of the pilot and his experiences.

(Set of six)