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RAZIA SULTAN

First Androgynous dresser in Indian Islamic History:

JALALAT UD DIN RAZIYA (1205-1240): The first woman ruler in the Indian Islamic history came from the fifth generation of the Seljuk Slave Ancestry. She was the first choice as successor to the kingdom by her father-Iltumish. She liked to be addressed as sultan and not sultana as was the norm at that time to address women. She was unable to gather the consent of the other rulers and most of all her own people who werenot able to accept a woman ruler at that time.

The trail of the dress up of the slave dynasty takes us to the Mamluk region of Egypt in the North Africa, which is considered to be the origin of the slave dynasty. While they moved into Turkeyand later into northwestern Indian subcontinent, they bought with them their style of dressing. Similarities can be seen in costumes of the Ottoman Empire (Turkey) and the Seljuk slave costumes as well. They were great warriors and skilled fighters.Their attire was inspired by functionality and was conducive to mission conquest.

In many old paintings, Razia is depicted as riding a horse, wearing a costume of a male warrior. Although through research it is known that her everyday ride wasan elephant. In some, she is seen wearing an upper Jama-like dress, while in others, a metallic chest plate with shoulder guards is seen. Her choice of dress probably derived inspiration from her father, like the male royals of her time; she wore ajama that is embroidered in gold threads and a salwar as the lower garment. Like the Turks, the Slave dynasty kings in India were great patrons of the arts, and architecture.

Pallavi Das is wearing a choga by JJ Valaya from his AW2012collection inspired by Turkey. Here the Choga is in silk velvet and the embroidiery motif is also Turkish. The techniques of embroidiery used include zari, kundan, dori and gold chain stitch work. The Choga is worn with a salwar by Rohit Bal. Here the attempt is to describe the salwar as a silhouette bought to Turkey and later to India by the Slave dynasty from Egypt, since they were the Mamluk of that region. Salwar is also found in this region at that time.

The footwear is a conjecture selection, inspired by the Turkish footwear that holds similarity to the footwear of Punjab in India and Pakistan.

She wears a turban. The Turkish turban is quite voluminous in nature, and is further adorned by a metallic headgear to protect the headduring wartime. In this picture she wears a knitted turban and an art piece over it - both by Kanika Saluja . Armour jewelry is worn, also by Kanika Saluja, and Turkish armour was rather elaborate and tough.

Copyrights:

All rights arereserved for this series with Hirumchi Styling Company.

About The Razia Series from Style of India

This is the first picture series from the open edition by Style of India. Style of India by Hirumchi Styling Company brings stories of Indian history through arresting visual series. Conceptualized and created by Ms Geeta Khanna, this series of shoots have been realized with in-depth reference to historic chronicles. This series has 6 visuals.

The prints shall be given in art paper with margins of one inch on all four sides so that they can be framed.

Each picture will carry its unique code and will be signed by the creator: Geeta Khanna. There shall be a certificate issued by Style of India that shall be duly stamped to prove its authenticity.